Knits! This Time A Dress...

Back in October when I was up to my ears in Halloween costumes I cut out a knit dress. It's pattern McCall's 5379.

I used the bodice of C and the waist of A. And it was pretty easy, whipped together in a snap. I only ran into problems on the chest. Basically I have NO chest and my dress form does, so when I put it on it was pretty big in the up top, if you know what I mean.

I think I'd like to tackle the pattern, or another like it. But this time I'll be sure to use a ball point needle that corresponds with the weight of the fabric. I didn't this time. Partly because I didn't know I needed to, and partly because I started the project at midnight. Where does one find a ball point needle at midnight? You don't, so I forged ahead and learned my lesson.

This dress has yet to see the light of day. But I'm hoping to bust it out of my closet, soon.

The Leftovers Must Go Somewhere, II

I made an insane amount of bias tape for this project. I get carried away when it comes to bias tape. And it had to go somewhere, right? It's too cute not to do something with it.

Then I read this blog, African Kelli, and cringed because I knew she was somewhat speaking to me and so many others who are faithful fans but have just not sewn from the book we all bought months ago. (This is an excellent sew along, but I have been way too busy to really sew with them this year.)

So, with the freedom they "assigned" to this month's challenge I flipped through my crisp new book that has literally collected fuzz-dust. With an eye toward fulfilling my Christmas shopping/gift list I settled on pp. 83, The Sewing Tools Trio. I'm telling you right now I would have none of the trio business, because I am WAY too busy for that. But the sewing machine cover was a very good choice for me. More specifically my mother-in-law because I happened to use her machine on a recent trip and know for a fact that her current cover is disintegrating. She has the same machine that I have so I felt confident that if I made the thing to fit my machine it would fit hers and I jumped right in. I also hope she doesn't read this blog or she will know what she is getting for Christmas.

Anyway, I jumped right in to changing the pattern. I like the cover featured, but I like to have a handle hole. I also knew I needed an extra pocket for the monster instruction manual that comes with this basic machine (seriously someone needs to tell Bernina that the manual is a bit thorough.)

If you would like to sew the cover as I have sewed it: follow along for my updated pattern -- which includes the general idea of that designed by Sarah Hunter. Snaps to Sarah Hunter -- whoever she may be -- but this new and wholly different pattern is specific to fit the Bernina 1008.


Materials
To begin with let me just say that I just cut, I don't measure and I'm not exactly sure how much I started with.

- 1 yard of 44/45" fabric (I used quilted and I think a heavy-duty fabric is necessary.)
- Some matching thread, but don't panic if it doesn't match, I never do
- A shitload of bias tape

Instructions
I feel I should disclose that I am not a pattern writer, but I used to write instructions for software. This could be dry. Also I used a 1/2" seam allowance on all seams.

1. Measure and mark the following pattern pieces on the wrong side of your fabric (the fabric you intend for the body of the cover). Two pieces 15x13" (front and back panel), two pieces 16x8"(side pieces), two pieces 4x9" (top handle pieces).

2. Cut those and set aside.

3. Measure and mark the following pattern pieces on the wrong side of your pocket fabric (if you don't want contrasting pockets you don't need to.) One piece 13x13" (lateral slide pocket), one piece 10x15" (drop in pocket).

4. Cut those and set aside.

5. Get out that bias tape you're about to have some fun! Sew bias tape per generally accepted instructions (good luck with that) to one side of each of your pockets, the 13" side of the lateral pocket and the 10" side of the drop in pocket. Also sew bias tape along one of the 8" sides of the long side pieces. Lastly sew bias tape along one 9" side of each of the top handle pieces. Confused? Yeah, me too.

6. Pin pockets in place on panels lining up wrong sides of pockets with right sides of panels. Loosely stitch around edges.

7. Center the top handle pieces to the front and back panels with right sides together. Pin and then sew the top handle pieces to the center-top of both the front and back panels.

8. With right sides together, take care to line up and pin the side pieces to the bottom corners of the front panel on each side. Stitch from bottom to top along side and up around the corner so that the bias taped ends of the side panels meet and then overlap slightly on top of the top handle pieces.

9. Pin back panel to sides with right sides together and follow the same instructions of step 8.

10. With cover inside out, or not, try to pin the edges of the side panels on top of the short edges of the top handle pieces. Then sew what will appear to be a top stitch along the side of the bias tape that isn't already stitched down. This is a colossal pain in the ass and you'll feel like you're looking down a deep hole at your project while trying to sew it at the same time. Not a good time for a glass of wine.

11. With cover inside out, attach the bias tape to the bottom edge. Once you're ready to make the final stitch line of the bias tape it will be time to turn the cover right side out.

12. Iron. Now, if anyone could tell me how to get wrinkles out of pre-quilted fabric, that would be great.


copyright notice: I appreciate that these pattern instructions might suck ass, but they are not to be reproduced without my consent, nor sold without me getting a cut.

Just Add Butter

Nothing cures a sewing slump like a fresh apron assembled for a friend. But sometimes I have a hard time letting them go.

Don't Be Fooled

This may look like an innocently simple tote bag. That's a trick.


Not only was it a pain in the arse to create, it's loaded with pockets and compartments. In case you want to actually bring the kitchen sink.

There are two compartments that are large enough to accommodate a large file folder or small laptop. They both close with heavy-duty magnetic closures. Then the center compartment is gigantic and zips close. You could put two bowling balls in that section -- and zip them safely in. I used a high-quality brass zipper.


All the fabrics are home dec weight. But the exterior is especially heavy and is covered in lime-green flocking. The bottom panels and the interior folder compartments are duck cloth. Basically, you'd have to work really hard to shred this bag. If anyone can do it, though, I can.

That's How I Roll

You could say I have a compulsive streak. Not so much a disorder, but a tendency to get excited about something and go overboard. Case in point. The knit cardi. I saw one. I made one. And now I've made another one. I can't stop. I have two more in the plans -- and have already purchased the fabric for them. But I'm sticking with tendency, not illness. For now.

This was a great pattern, Simplicity 2603. I want to try it, again (obviously). And I want to try the version with longer tails. I made a modification to the sleeve and to the neck. The fabric I was working with was slinky and actually a bit sheer. So though the pattern called to create ruching with an elastic in the neck, I elected not to do that. It would have shown through the fabric. This fabric drapes just fine without the help of an elastic.


Drapes well. Working with it was a bit troublesome for a person with my limited experience in knits. Slipping all over the place. No sense using an iron. Pins literally fell out of it. But I loved the color and I did like how if felt against the skin. Though I fear it will showcase my bra fat hanger-over bulge in great detail.

I created a 5-inch cuff on the sleeve. I did this to create enough weight to make a nice sleeve that would hang nicely and not roll or bunch -- again, very flimsy material. I used a double needle to fake a cover stitch on the sleeve's hem. But I did go ahead and use my serger for all other construction, including a real cover stitch on the hem around the bottom and along the neck.

Costume: LEGO Castle Guy

Happy Halloween! Well, almost. And as you know by now, I've been making all kinds of costumes and having a great time doing it. This one is for a 4 1/2 year old boy who wanted nothing more than to look like the LEGO Castle guy. That is how I found myself make costume pattern simplicity 5520. I have now made 3 of the 4 options.


This was my first time sewing this plastic/vinyl stuff. Was pretty easy to work with, expect for the part where you can't use an iron, nor pins. But I did use a lot of cello tape and managed it just fine. There is "warm and natural" quilt batting inside and scraps from a sheet on the back.


The tunic is made from velvet and the chain is a synthetic fabric we found at a local fabric store. It was a little like working with pantyhose and runs easily. I made all seams with my serger's rolled hem.

PS -- I even made something for myself. See it here, first, on Halloween.

Costume: Purple Haze

I made another one. Did a few things differently. The sheer I used for the sleeves already had an edge, so I didn't need my serger to roll edge the hem of the edges. I did, however, elect to roll edge hem the seams of the sleeve, rather than use the french seam called for in the pattern. I also added a velvet ribbon. It covers up a gather (that I needed to fix these sleeves to accommodate that edging) and I think it adds a wintery touch even if on sheer sleeves.

I used a contrasting fabric for the middle panel. I did this because I realized the dark purple was a little severe for the 3 year old who will be wearing it. It still needs to be hemmed -- but won't do that until she tries it on again.
Speaking of trying it on. The first fitting showed me that I needed a zipper in this one, rather than the hook and eye I used on the pink-pink-pink version. This was a little difficult as I had already sewn the shawl collar on.
Considering the cold weather we've had around here, I'm starting to realize these little girls will be wearing long johns and snow pants under their skirts. Might make for a full skirt without the petticoat. Cute.

Now I will make a veil for this one, too. But I need a brainstorm on that one. The little girl who will wear it has a really cute, short bob. So, a headband might not stay on her head when weighted down by the veil. So, I need to noodle that.
PS -- I promise you the other costume is coming. Be patient.

Costume: Pink with Pink and Pink

Have you ever made something and laughed the entire time you were at the sewing machine? The past two projects I've worked on had me giggling with delight. The first is one I'll feature sometimes this week -- so check back -- and the other, this pink monster.


It was a costume request for a 5 year old. Her favorite color is pink, but that wasn't the real inspiration. Her middle name is Rose -- thus the roses in the texture of the fabric (is that considered jacquard or brocade, I never know). Having two little boys myself, I leaped at the opportunity to use things I never get to use on them, pink, ribbons, sparkles, silk flowers.


I followed costume pattern simplicity 5520 (which is a LOT like simplicity 4944) and vogue 7009. I made a few modifications and basically combined A with B and the flowers from E on 7009. Let me first say that this is just a costume, so the level of finish work called for in the pattern is mediocre. The pattern itself does call for a zipper, but I think pulling it over ones head is a bit easier for a 5 year old. Thus I modified the closure to be a simple hook/eye.


I put my serger to work on this project, using a 3-thread rolled hem for the sleeves and veil details. I also used a variegated thread in my serger so there is a bit of a rainbow effect on the rolled hem. I have never done that before. Not sure I would for anything other than a costume, but at least I know it can be done.


This project was the first time I had used the vogue 7009 pattern in conjunction with anything. What a waste of a pattern, if you ask me. Seriously, it's gathered strips of fabric. Don't buy the pattern. Just cut strips of fabric twice as wide as you'd like the petals (about 3 inches) by 5, 7, or 9 inches long. Then gather them and sew them together in concentric circles. SO easy. Please don't waste your money on the pattern -- unless it's on sale for 99 cents and you'll feel more confident using the pattern. It is a fun and useful embellishment and with the right amount of imagination could be modified to be raw edge petals (which I think would be more fashion forward).


My original plan was to make roses for the arm bands but I ran out of all the shimmery pink stuff and it was a remnant so I didn't think I could get more. The arm bands are optional and attach by velcro (thus one sleeve has one and the other does not).


The headband/veil is a simple headband cut on bias with an elastic lenth at the base. Then I sewed the gathered veil (I used my ruffler to make it super tight) between the two sides of the headband. The fabric roses and florists leaves are all wired together and then hand tacked onto the center of the headband. I was winging it with that at 2 a.m., but I like the result. The veil is not from the pattern, I just eyeballed that. It's a bit "bump-it" but I think any little girl will love it.



OK, now I promise I'm going to show you more costumes this month, maybe as early as next week. So, watch out.

Real Men Cook

I just finished four chef sets for auction at a school fundraiser. (Auctions make me nervous, what if no one bids!?!??!) Before I sent the four little sets away I asked the boys to show them off.

The aprons are very high quality home dec weight "homespun" that resemble gingham. The hats are trouser weight poplin. I made my bias trim, as always, and I used a fairly heavy cotton. The result was that all the corners and stitches laid really flat and I love them.


This is an apron pattern I whipped up on my own (though you really can't take credit for something this simple) and the chef hat is from Simplicity 3650. I have used the pattern many times, but only for the chef's hat. Some day I'll branch out and make the cowgirl outfit... I hope.

I employed my cover stitch (on the serger) liberally on this project. I'm so pleased with the results. It sped things up from a production stand point and I like the finish on the hat -- see the picture. I also used my ruffler foot to create the gather in the hat this time. In the past I've just gathered it by hand. I LOVE my ruffler. Use it every chance I get, now.


Stay tuned because I finished Cooper's Halloween costume. It's a riot. I just need to photograph him in it. Also, up to my neck in another project, also for Halloween. Hot pink jacquard. That's all I'm saying.

Quilt: Black and White and Girl All Over

I finished another quilt. This one is a little baby blanket. I kinda made up the pattern after seeing something in a magazine. If you want to know how I made it, just leave a comment and I can send you specifics. I tried mixing fabrics that were both traditional and modern. So there are some midcentry modern and some depression area (reproduction). Also, gotta have the good 'ol polka dots. The label on the back is a combination of satin stitch on the machine and hand embroidery.

This one is for another one of those fabulous nieces. Only 8 more quilts to go -- unless of course we get more babies in the family. Who should I make one for, next?

Napkin, Please

I have a friend who has two little girls, who are prissy little things. (Well all girls seem prissy to me.) She recommended that I try making a child-sized cloth napkin.

Forget about it. I was all over that project.

I found hankie fabric -- which is darling in its own right -- and rolled-hem edged the squares. Here's the first set of six. It was the first time I used the rolled-hem edge on my serger. I might need to practice that a bit more.

Check back in a few days to see what I did with the strip of border that was on the hankie fabric.

People Always Ask Me...

From time to time folks ask me to repair school uniforms. I'm not really a tailor so I stay away from major repairs, but for friends and neighbors I don't mind it. Next question... how much?

Here's a list of some of the repairs I do, and what I charge.

Move or sew on buttons $1.50 each

Take in skirt waist $12.50

Hem skirt $12.50

Elasticize a waistband on skirt or pants $20 (includes elastic)

Taper legs of pants (2 seams) $12

Taper legs of pants (4 seams) $20

Hem pants $8.50

Attach badges or emblems $2.50 each

Fix zippers $20

And that my friends is just about all I'll do.

Nap Time Tote: Girls Only

I've made a few naptime totes in my day. I love them. I wish I have known how to make them when I had little babies. But my little guys rarely take naps anymore... so obsolete. But it's my baby gift. That is to say when I hear someone is having a baby I always think, "How can I update the naptime tote for them??!?!"

This one is very girly, but not in pink. I might make myself a scarf out of this fleece, it's great. Got the fleece on clearance at Hobby Lobby (of all places) and the polka dot fabric was just a pick up. You can get it just about anywhere, I've seen in everywhere from WalMart to Hobby Lobby to JoAnn's.

This time I made the pockets a bit smaller and I divided them with a seam down the middle. I think they'll accomodate diapers and sippy cups better that way.

Overlock Project: 2 Aprons

I know what you're thinking... does she even sew anymore. Well, I have been slowing down because I've taken a break to get acquainted with my new Bernina Overlock/Coverstitch Server. (It's wonderful.)

I took a few mastery classes and I've been trying to practice everything we learned in class. Now I'm really starting to understand where I can use it to improve my sewing projects. I just finished two aprons and to attach the ruffle I used an overlock stitch (but no cutting edge). I also put my ruffler foot to use. Those are useful, but I'm still learning how to judge how gathered to make pieces and still work with a pattern.

The fabrics are pretty old, not sure what some of them are. The red is a moda (I think) and I think it's called Little Christmas. I have no idea where the cowboy fabric came from, but it was about $1 a yard (I kept the tag). The Christmas print is an Alexander Henry and it was $1 a yard at Hancock Fabric in Idaho Falls. I'm telling you those small towns clearance fabrics that are absolutely gobbled up around here.

These are headed to an area art market. I've got to sew at least one thing a day to get ready for it. I've never done anything like this -- actually sold anything -- so it will be a learning experience. If nothing else I will bash my stash.

Pleated Sheers

I found occasion to use my serger, again. I'm trying to use it as much as possible because I've heard that if you use it alot in the first month you'll teach yourself to always think of how you can use it on projects that don't call for overlock but that could be improved with overlock.

My dining room really needed something to bring down its scale. I know that sounds weird... but it's a tall room with an enormous table and an enormous hutch in it. Every time I went in there I felt like the place echoed. Now, that being said, it's not a huge room, really. It was just tall and narrow. So, thought fabric might help.

I zipped these up (I have more to make when JoAnn's delivers my special order of 15 more yards) very quickly. It's a gauzy linen with black embroidery embellishment from the Tommy Bahama line (got it for 40 percent off with coupon). I used overlock to finish the top and bottom ends of each swath of fabric. Then I used blind hem to finish the sides. Then I used curtain pleater tape and drapery hooks to create the pinch pleats. This was a pretty simple process and very quick. I used blind hem, again, to finish up the bottom hem.

1st Overlock Project: Pajama Bottoms

I bought the Bernina. It is wonderful. I've only taken one mastery class (learning to make pleated drapes of all things) so I only know how to do the overlock stitch. I don't even know how to thread my own machine, yet. But the ladies down at the dealer are wonderful.

All I've made are these silly little PJ bottoms. It only took about two minutes. The serger is so fast. This is going to be fun getting to know this machine. I appreciate that these pants are not too impressive. But you should see the drapes I'm working on.

PHOTO NOTE: My son was not a willing model.

Serger

Well, I've been given the green light on a serger. This is to say that my husband sees the value. I've really been wanting to sew some things for our home, but didn't want to spend the money on the a-maz-ing fabrics if it wasn't going to have that professional look that a serger gives projects.

Now, I've got to decide which serger to get. I'm leaning toward the Bernina 1300. But, it's kinda expensive. Oh. oh. oh. I get so paralyzed by perfection. It will be hard to choose one.

Making It Up: McCall's 5591

Well, it took me three months (or more) to finish this skirt. I'm not sure I love the end result but there are reasons for that:

1. I fell in love with a chambray skirt in the JCREW catalog and tried to replicate. Well, we all know that knock-offs still feel like knock-offs -- even when perfectly executed.

2. Whenever I think things like, "...sometimes a pattern makes things more simple..." I am setting myself up for disaster.

3. Patterns hate me. I've said it before, and I'll say it, again. My body must be an absolute anomaly of science because patterns always have to be altered, drastically to make them fit. In the case of this pattern I literally just started chopping new pieces of fabric and sewing them on willy-nilly to make a waistband that wasn't 4 inches short of reaching around my middle.

If you have a normal body, you might want to try this pattern. It is McCall's M5591. It was challenging, but not impossible. Mostly just fidgety. I had to do a lot of tucking, pleating, ironing. Oh, and there's a zipper. But, I didn't think the zipper was nearly as hard as the waistband itself. I did stray from the pattern for the waistband. The pockets were a cinch (I'd heard pockets can be a bear). I didn't mess with the belt loops and sash, but that's just not my style. It only takes about 2 yards of fabric and a zipper... so possible to make it from stash fabric.

PS -- When I showed it to my husband he said, "It's (insert awkward hesitation) modest."